Back on the Blocs

Leaving Austria once more, wasn't easy for me. I had a really nice time at home and though I had to take a break from climbing due to a cold, I still had 6 climbing days during those two-weeks. It felt so good to be back; to see all those familiar faces and places!!

I couldn't send the "Rechte Traverse" at Rapunzelwand, as it had been my plan, but that's ok....I was quite close before I got sick.
Afterwards I came back to give it some more tries, but my hip hurt a lot everytime I placed the heelhook and because of this I couldn't build up any body-tension.
Some tries without tension, but lots of pain later, I cogitated how I could spend this day more usefully.
So I was in Peggau, but without my car - I left my car in Palma - and with not too much daylight left.
First I thought about simply trying "Pulp Friction", as I would have had to move my crashpad just about 50 cm, but after carefully watching the existing video, I knew that it wouldn't be a good idea, because you have to set the same heelhook. You are probably in a different body position and maybe it would not have hurt, but there was another reason to change the crag.
I wanted to send at least something.....my last send was back at the end of September...a looooong time ago.

There was only one more reachable crag: the Peggauer Höhle.
I didn't like this place a lot...I don't know why. Probably because I couldn't climb anything there, but the warm-ups on the left side.
I packed my stuff and hiked there, to try "Die stinkenden Römer".
When I arrived at the spot I couldn't wait to get onto it, aaaaaaaand..........nothing!
I was on my own and really afraid to climb that steep and dynamic boulder without a spotter, or more than just one small crashpad. Next one!! ;-)

"Höhlentraverse": seemed like a nice boulder, but there where two problems with it:
Problem 1: too hard for a send within 2 days
Problem 2: My solution contained a painful toehook and after some tries I didn't want to set it anymore...but without it I was simply chanceless.

As I've been quite tired already, I moved on to the "Fummelei - Damenvariante" a nice 7a, that I tried once or twice 2 years ago. Back then I couldn't find any solution to get to the good sloper-ledge (with the big pocket).
And also now it was utterly hard. I placed the toehook, I grabed a crimp with my left hand, another one with my right hand and baaam....one more time I was cuddling with the crashpad. :-)
I don't know when and why, but one time I didn't place the toehook and simply made a shoulder move to the right crimp, and it worked surprisingly well.
Though I fell on the next move, I was pretty happy, because now I had my solution!!!
No toehook on the "Damenvariante"!
I did some more tries, but that day I couldn't reach my highpoint anymore. Too tired...

Here I'm testing the upper (and easier) moves of  "Fummelei"

The rest is not really hard to guess: I came back the next day - my last day in Austria - and I could send it easily, though it was quite scary to do it with just one crashpad and without any spotter again...
But, there exists one good solution for such cases: just don't fall! Hahaha :D

Happy and content I returned to Mallorca and kept bouldering.
I did some nice problems up to 7b, and I have some more to try (send) during the next weeks!
P.s. the two boulders in the following video where my first ones harder than 7a. ;-)

I'm so motivated now, and I think I will do a lot more bouldering this year than the ones before...but ok, that's not too hard, as I didn't do a single boulder in 2014...